The short version
- Honda is the make where the labor, not the part, sets the bill. Front bearings are pressed into the knuckle.
- The knuckle usually has to come off the car and go to a press, which is why quotes look high for a cheap component.
- A rusted circlip inside the knuckle is the step that turns a routine job difficult.
- Rear bearings on most Hondas are far easier, being bolt on hub units.
A Honda owner looking at a quote often thinks something is wrong with it. The bearing is cheap and the number is not. That gap is a Honda wheel bearing job being mostly labor.
Understanding the procedure explains the price better than any argument about parts.
Why a Honda wheel bearing costs what it does
The bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle, and the hub is pressed through the middle of the bearing.
Getting them apart means unbolting the knuckle from the car and taking it to a hydraulic press, or sending it out to a machine shop.
Shops charge a small bench fee to press the old one out and the new one in. The rest of the bill is time spent taking the corner apart.
The general procedure is on the press in page, the without a press options are on the no press page, and the bench charge sits on the press service page.
The step that goes wrong
A snap ring holds the bearing in the knuckle. On an older car it corrodes into its groove and refuses to come out cleanly.
Owners report resorting to a rotary tool to remove one. Budget time for it rather than being surprised by it.
Clean the groove completely before fitting the new ring, because a ring that will not seat lets the bearing move.
That is on the snap ring page and the not seating page.
Fitting direction matters here
Many Honda bearings carry a magnetic encoder ring on one face, usually darker in color. The wheel speed sensor reads it.
Fit it the wrong way round and the ABS light comes on immediately, with a bearing that is otherwise perfectly good.
Check the marking before pressing, because correcting it means pressing the bearing back out. That is on the orientation page and the light after replacement page.
Honda wheel bearing arrangements by model
| Model group | Front | Rear |
|---|---|---|
| Civic, Accord | Pressed into the knuckle | Bolt on hub unit |
| CR-V | Pressed into the knuckle | Bolt on hub unit |
| Odyssey, Pilot | Pressed into the knuckle | Bolt on hub unit |
| Fit, Insight | Pressed into the knuckle | Bolt on hub unit |
The pattern is unusually consistent. Front is a press job and rear is bolts, which means the two ends of the same car have very different bills.
Why that difference exists is on the front versus rear page.
The complete knuckle option
Some suppliers sell a complete knuckle with the bearing and hub already pressed in. It costs more as a part and removes the press work.
Without press access that trade can be worth taking. It also sidesteps a seized circlip.
The decision is laid out on the bearing or hub page and the DIY or shop page.
Before you commit
- Confirm the corner, since a rear job on the same car is much cheaper.
- Rock the wheel at twelve and six, and listen for a gritty catch on a slow spin.
- Weave at road speed to check the noise follows load to one side.
- Rule out the tires, because a cupped tire hums the same way.
- Ask what the quote includes, specifically whether the press work is in it.
Those are on the checking page, the tire noise page and the quote page.
Common questions
Why is a Honda wheel bearing so expensive to replace?
The part is cheap and the labor is not. The front bearing is pressed into the knuckle, which usually has to come off the car.
Do I need a press?
For the front, yes, or a shop that will do the pressing for you. The rear is normally a bolt on hub.
What is the hardest part of the job?
The circlip in the knuckle. On older cars it corrodes into its groove and fights every attempt to remove it.
Why did my ABS light come on afterwards?
Very often the bearing went in backwards. The magnetic encoder face has to point inward toward the sensor.
Is buying a complete knuckle worth it?
It can be, if you have no press access. You pay more for the part and skip the hardest steps.
Which Hondas ask about this most?
Civic and Accord by a long way, then CR-V and Odyssey.
Are the rear ones the same job?
No, and that is the good news. Most Honda rear bearings are bolt on units with no press work at all.
By model
- CR-V Wheel Bearings: All Wheel Drive Changes the Rear wheel bearings
- Honda Accord Wheel Bearings: The Mileage Spread wheel bearings
- Honda City wheel bearings
- Honda Civic Wheel Bearings: Front Press, Rear Bolt wheel bearings
- Honda Del Sol wheel bearings
- Honda Element Wheel Bearings: the SC Trim Fork wheel bearings
- Honda HR-V Wheel Bearings and the Trim-Level Trap wheel bearings
- Honda Insight Wheel Bearings: Light Car, Loud Clues wheel bearings
- Honda Passport Wheel Bearings: an Isuzu in Honda Clothes wheel bearings
- Honda Pilot Wheel Bearings: Drivetrain and the Staked Nut wheel bearings
- Honda Prelude Wheel Bearings Across Three Chassis Eras wheel bearings
- Honda S2000 Wheel Bearings: One Number, 9000 RPM wheel bearings
- Odyssey Wheel Bearings: A Real Press Job wheel bearings